Volume 33 Number 6 July 8, 2009

Travel Excursion – England’s Lake District – Part II
Adventures await tourists visiting lakes, towns & shops

By Patrice Raplee

Photos by © Patrice Raplee

A sunny morning hastens visitors along the marina to seek out a morning cruise across the sparkling lake. Patrons keen to inspect the lake town’s myriad of promising shops, pause to inhale the aroma of fresh baking scones wafting in the air. It is a fine morning in England’s Lake District and the adventures are just beginning.

The lovely town of Bowness-on-Windermere is located on the shores of (lake) Windermere in Cumbria’s South Lakeland. Bowness and the neighboring town of Windermere have been a popular holiday destination since the Victorian era. Each year visitors are fervent to explore the enchanting shops, stone architecture, majestic scenery, and pristine blue lake waters that mark this enigmatic region.

Windermere Lake is 10.5 miles long, one mile wide and 220 feet deep. It flows past small picturesque islets, Wray castle and grand old mansions originally built by businessmen in the late 19th century. Many of these sumptuous mansions were converted years ago into exquisite hotels with rambling grounds overlooking the lake. Windermere’s idyllic setting has also been the location for numerous major motion pictures.

With the rugged surrounding fells, lush green rolling hills and woodland shores as a scenic backdrop, a lake cruise (a variety of options available) is a comfortable and distraction-free way to discover the natural and stunning beauty of the area. If you prefer to be the captain of your own expedition, Bowness offers several reputable companies that rent canoes, kayaks, sailboats and motor boats as well.

Bowness-on-Windermere’s Town Center lays a little north of the lake docks and inclines at a gentle angle with charming hotels and inns overlooking the lake. The streets are lined with storybook slate and stone buildings dating back 100s of years. These buildings house intriguing little shops that offer gourmet British foods and teas, clothing, books, sporting goods, gifts, traditional pubs and the famous World of Beatrix Potter Attraction. Twenty-three of Beatrix Potter’s best-loved tales, replete with characters, come to life in splendid three-dimensional scenes. Special sets, lighting, sounds and scents, combined with the storybook characters, create a magical world for guests to walk through. Meander down a wooded path where silly Jemima Puddle Duck gets too close to the Fox and naughty Peter Rabbit dares enter Mr. McGregor's garden. Children and adults will fall in love with this superbly created attraction that leads guests through each story with extraordinary detail and life-like characters that Beatrix herself would have applauded. In addition, the World of Beatrix Potter offers a remarkable and comprehensive gift shop. And, the fabulous Tea Room serves a respectable tea, scones and treats in a family atmosphere with a kid’s menu that will elicit joyful smiles. For additional information, visit http://www.hop-skip-jump.com.

To see the sights around Bowness and Windermere requires a confident driver. Small, one-lane roads and an opposite-side steering wheel can make for a challenging if not hectic endeavor. Forget the hassle and call Mountain Goat Tours. The company provides an excellent group trip that tours the most popular sites and attractions on a comfortable coach for great prices. Although Mountain Goat offers private tours, the group tours are especially fun and they generally consist of guests of all ages. Their four-and-half-hour tour takes visitors through several small towns where famous poets and artists lived and then continues for a wonderful boat cruise that embarks from the town of Coniston. After the lake cruise, shopping at quaint little villages such as Hawkeshead and exploring scenic tarns and beautiful countryside are just a few of the tours highlights. However, one of the most popular features is a visit to Beatrix Potter’s Hilltop House located in Near Sawrey. Beatrix purchased the house in the summer of 1905 and lived there for many years writing and illustrating her famous children’s books. She incorporated many of the house’s characteristic and grounds into her illustrations and these characteristics are clearly visible today. In fact, Hilltop and the lovely surrounding countryside are much the same as they were over 100 years ago. And, all of Beatrix’s household goods and possessions (except for a few rugs and curtains) are still in the house and remain exactly where she let them; even her shoes tucked neatly beneath her chair by the fireplace.

When you visit Hilltop House and its gardens, it’s easy to imagine Beatrix’s world of bunnies munching on cabbage leaves and kittens scampering down paths bordered by wildflowers. Yet, most important, the visit provides a glimpse into the remarkable life of a gifted author, illustrator, conservationist and extraordinary woman that has enriched lives and imaginations the world over! For additional information on Mountain Goat Tours, visit www.mountain-goat.com. For Hilltop House, visit www.nationaltrust.org.uk/beatrixpotter.

Bowness offers wonderful accommodations and one of the most exceptional is the Lindeth Howe Country House Hotel. Lindeth Howe is located on Longtail Hill commanding a superb view of the lake in a gorgeous, private setting of sprawling lawns and terraced gardens surrounding the lovely country house. It was originally built as a summer home in 1879 with the wealthy owner often renting the house to friends for their holidays, such as the Potter Family. In later years, Beatrix Potter would illustrate two of her stories, Timmy Tiptoes and Pigling Bland, in the grand home. Eventually, Beatrix purchased the home for her mother after her father passed away. Today, photographs from original plates of Beatrix and her family grace the walls of Lindeth Howe depicting a compelling story of another era.

After many years as a B&B and a detailed expansion that kept with the original design of the house in ‘99, Lindeth Howe became a popular and highly-praised country house. Currently, the hotel purports 32 well-appointed and handsome rooms with fantastic views, a small but enticing indoor pool with spa facility and an elegant yet comfortable top-rated restaurant. Moreover, the country house’s lounges and common rooms emanate coziness with rich décor and a semblance of serenity that inspires a flawless reverie.

For additional information, visit www.lindeth-howe.co.uk.

To continue your exploration of the Lake District, journey north to Rydal and Grasmere, located a few miles north of Windermere. This area of Lakeland is absolutely beguiling. Hand-built slate stone walls constructed 100s of years ago, run endlessly across deep, green hillsides that cordon off grazing sheep and their lambs. And, the clear reflective lakes and tree-covered fells are breathtaking with several lakeshore walks, as well as fell (mountain) walks within the area.

The charming and small village of Grasmere was home to the famous romantic 18th century poet William Wordsworth. His Dove Cottage home is where he wrote his greatest poetry. Dove Cottage has been preserved and is now an impressive museum and art gallery that offers an intimate look at the poet. The Dove Cottage tour chronicles Wordsworth’s life, circle of poet friends, such as Samuel Taylor Coleridge, his family and works that were inspired by the natural beauty of Grasmere. For additional information, visit www.wordsworth.org.uk.

The village of Grasmere appears as if out of a fable with small stone houses, English pubs and the charming St. Oswald’s church located in the middle of town. The village is small and easily walkable with numerous little gift shops and interesting antiques. Wander down the road to the village’s tiniest shop, the delicious Grasmere Gingerbread Shop. The gingerbread shop makes a one-of-kind gingerbread you’ll trade your best friend for; fortunately, they ship globally. And, the alluring Sam Read Bookseller is over 120-years old. It’s the kind of place you’d expect to find a mysterious novel and tales of secret enchantment. When it’s time to rest and find lunch, the Dove and Olive Branch Pub serves a mean pint of bitters and offers an appetizing menu in a setting you won’t find outside of an old English countryside. For additional information on the Grasmere Gingerbread shop, visit www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk.

Rydal Mount and Gardens, located just before Grasmere, was William Wordsworth’s final home and consequently, the grandest. He lived at Rydal Mount with his wife and children for 37 years until his death in 1850 and during that period, he wrote many of his poems and revised older works. Yet, there was another side to the gifted poet; he was an avid gardener and he beautifully landscaped the four acres surrounding his home. Fell-side rock terraces, lawns and rock pools were interwoven with woodland paths and planted with rare shrubs, colorful flowers and rhododendrons to create a nature oasis. The gardens remain virtually the same as when Wordsworth designed it, as well as the house and its interior. This is largely due to his descendants who still own Rydal Mount and their care to preserve the historical legacy. Many of Wordsworth’s contemporaries, such as Ralph Waldo Emerson, would visit him at Rydal Mount discussing and reciting poetry together while strolling through the magnificent gardens.

The interior of the house is light-filled and gives the impression of a much-loved and lived-in atmosphere. It is filled with furniture, possessions and fascinating cabinets containing antique curios from Wordsworth and his family, making the tour much more interesting and personal. In the lowest portion of the house resides a heavenly little teashop called Dora’s Tearoom (the name of Wordsworth’s daughter) that features home baked English tea breads, scones and assorted English delicacies. It is a true pleasure to sit in this inviting and charming portion of the home while sipping a cup of tea and contemplating Wordsworth’s lovely poetry. In the warmer months, call before visiting and arrange a prepared picnic in Wordsworth’s garden. To sit amongst the poetry of nature gazing at the cascading purple wisteria covering the home’s façade and Lake Windermere in the distance, is paradise itself. For additional information, visit www.rydalmount.co.uk.

The Lake District encompasses a great many small towns and villages (Buttermere) with scenic drives, such as Honister Pass, hiking paths and attractions. Each place possesses captivating stories, notables, ancient churches and history in an environment found nowhere else in the world. To explore these fascinating aspects and delve into the regions of the Lake District requires a guide of reputable standing and insight. Registered Blue Badge Guides provide the visitor with not only personal or group transportation but also a keen insight to what England’s North Country has to offer. Cumbrian Discoveries provides the best service with a multitude of options for guests visiting the region. For visitors who wish unique experiences to be remembered for a lifetime, visit www.cumbriandiscoveries.co.uk .

Keswick (the ‘w’ is silent) is located towards the northern portion of the Lake District. This small town has many marvelous and interesting attractions, as well as a beauty that differs in topography from the southern region. Skiddaw Mountain provides a striking backdrop for the town with hikers from across the globe visiting Keswick every year to take advantage of the superb fell paths that lace the area. Derwentwater flowing to the town’s south is perfect for numerous water sports activities. The jetties by Derwentwater are a popular recreation area with cafes and a top repertory theater, Theatre by the Lake. The theater houses a main studio showcasing professional companies performing great works by authors such as Melvyn Bragg (Maid of Buttermere).

Keswick’s town center hosts the large outdoor Market Square that received its charter in 1276. Shoppers will find everything they could dream of in this traditional market from dry goods to stellar English cheese. Loads of shops, boutiques, museums, art galleries and restaurants surround the square and make for a fabulous day of browsing, shopping and dining. An exceptional shop to visit is Ye Olde Friars that sells every top quality chocolate, confection, jam and British gift imaginable in a huge retail space; try the scrumptious clotted cream toffees.

For something entirely different, visit the Motor Museum Cars of the Stars. Harry Potter’s flying Ford Anglia and James Bond’s Aston Martin are among just a few of the famous cars seen and coveted from Hollywood’s major motion pictures in the museum. Keswick may seem like an unlikely spot to host such a museum but nonetheless, the number of cool cars and memorabilia on display will impress you. In addition, don’t miss the new and largest James Bond Museum in the UK next door.

For admirable accommodations in Keswick, visit the Lairbeck Hotel. The hotel is only a few minutes from downtown and is a former grand residence with gorgeous rooms and superb cuisine. For additional information, visit www.lairbeckhotel-keswick.co.uk.

The Lake District offer visitors a chance to experience one of England’s most beautiful national parks with activities that appeal to every age group. It is rare to find natural regions as unspoiled as Lakeland and to experience what it must have been like to live over 150 years ago in a place and time of romantic poetry, inspiration and natural beauty almost too magnificent to believe! For additional information on the Lake District, visit www.cumbriatourism.org www.golakes.co.uk.

Transportation to the Lake District

BritRail is an excellent way to unwind from an international flight and whether visitors fly into Heathrow or Manchester, the railway stations are conveniently located within the terminal complexes. It is truly the smartest and most pleasant way to travel in the UK. For additional information, visit www.britrail.com.