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Volume 26--Number 10• October 15, 2002 Serving Portland, Surrounding Areas, and Seattle

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Dixieland Fever In
Dresden Germany


Jaroslavjezeks - photo by Patrice Raplee
Jaroslavjezeks - photo by Patrice Raplee

By Patrice Raplee

The Dixieland Fieber (or Fever) Jazz Festival in Dresden, Germany, is an event of considerable magnitude. This annual May music festival draws fans and musicians from all over Europe and the United States. Positively Entertainment takes to the streets of Dresden for the sights and sounds of the city and the spectacular European jazz extravaganza.

Famous for its beautiful architecture, the free state of Saxony has come back from the brink of total annihilation from the '45 fire bombing of World War II. The opulent pavilions and galleries of "King August The Strong" once again stand sentinel over the glorious Elbe River.

Dresden has a multitude of fascinating museums, including the magnificent Zwinger Museum. This exquisite museum houses the famous Raffaelo Santi, Sistine Madonna, as well as a room full of Peter Paul Reuben's paintings.

The open-air markets, or Alt Marts in downtown are a great way to sample the local cuisine and shop for souvenirs. For porcelain enthusiasts, the world-renown Dresden Porcelain factory is just 20 minutes from downtown by car, or 30 minutes by tram. The factory gives tours and sells their beautiful porcelain on-site. A word for the wise, bring extra luggage for the great values you'll want to take home. The current exchange rate on the Duetsch mark is better than two-to-one on the American dollar.

There are many smaller cities residing just outside of Dresden that are a must-see. The medieval town of Meissen is the essence of 12th century design in the town's Dom Platz. A bridge made of stone and paved with cobblestone is just barely large enough for a car. This picturesque path leads to an old 12th century church and modern eateries, such as the delicious Dom Keller restaurant that overlooks the entire town, river and valley with a view that is unmatchable. Other sights worth the trip include the Pillnitz, (an Asian-styled pleasure palace and gardens on the river) and the town of Moritzburg.

The list of things to do is endless, but after spending the day sightseeing and shopping, it's time to get ready for the much anticipated three-day Dixieland Fever Festival. The start of the festival commences on a Friday evening and continues day and night through Sunday. Cobblestone streets wind around the restored 17th century buildings and churches that line the edges of the old downtown district. Soft golden light spills out from restaurants and clubs over the tables filled with laughing and excited festival goers. Plans are made and routes are chosen, as the crowd gets ready for the music and fireworks over the Elbe.

Dusk falls on Dresden turning the skies a dusty red that signals the musicians to pick up their banjos, trumpets, clarinets and saxophones. The anticipation summits and a cacophony of Dixieland music descends upon the city with a lively vigor, as every international band possible joins in the tumult. One of the ardent quartets exudes the spirit and enthusiasm of Sweet Georgia Brown and Ain't She Sweet, while fans of every nationality bob their heads and snap their fingers in rhythm.

A. Pettigrew translates for Positively Entertainment in a brief interview with this very talented Prague Quartet. "The band's name is Jaroslavjezeks," states Pettigrew. "They have performed together for five years and all of them went to the jazz conservatory in Prague.

The group plays a repertoire of Bohemian, Folk and Gypsy music. In fact, the Dixieland music that they perform has a definite Gypsy edge." Pettigrew laughs, "I am not exactly sure what they mean by this, but they are very excited to play "classic American Dixieland standards." The band all agrees that Dixieland music and American jazz are "The greatest, the best!" Pettigrew asks the sax player for his name and is told that she would have "great difficulty pronouncing it, let alone spelling it." She nods and indicates that the quartet must resume their performance. Jaroslavjezeks joke with the audience and then ease into a slow and sultry rendition of Blueberry Hill.

As if by some invisible signal, all of the music in the city stops and the air is filled with an expectant silence. A low resonance, compression sound explodes into the night air and brilliantly colored fireworks cascade down into the Elbe River.

Collective "oohs" and "ahhs" capture the attention of the giddy, German-beer induced crowd. The backdrop of the city behind the fireworks takes on a slightly eerie appearance, as the visitors of the festival are reminded of Dresden's old world architecture and not so distant past. After the grand fireworks display has ended, the music and the multi-lingual chatter continue with a boisterous appeal.

Several of the smaller restaurants feature only solitary piano-vocalists. The pianist's melancholy voices seem to flow out along the banks of the river and follow the couples that leisurely stroll from club to club. From Tapas bars to traditional German restaurants, every club in Dresden is filled with the sound of American down-home Dixieland music and the Europeans love it.

The narrow cobblestone streets are brimming with music lovers; the hour is late and there is no room left to navigate or investigate the American musicians who have ventured to Germany for this international celebration. PE reluctantly says, "Auf wiedersehen" to a wonderful music festival and an incredibly beautiful city.

The enchanting and luminous vitality of Dresden is a perfect Mecca and May is a perfect month to plan a visit for the annual Dixieland Jazz Fever Celebration. For more information on the Dixieland Festival, contact Dresden, Germany chamber of commerce, or your preferred travel agent.

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