Northern Portugal an Oasis for Travelers
Travel Excursion
Porto, Portugal – Photo by Patrice Raplee
By Patrice Raplee
Porto, Portugal, is a city with soul, populated with a genial and
supportive community. The unhurried pace of life in Porto mirrors the
graceful flow of ocean waves rolling on her shores and makes the strife
in the world seem distant and remote. Brilliant blue skies set against
red tile roofs and the sun glittering on the Douro River summon the
youthful anticipation of summer and the promise of adventures to unfold.
Northern Portugal is a remarkable oasis for travelers in a destination-saturated
planet.
Old Porto is the hub for sightseeing, cuisine and river tours. Amidst
the narrow streets that wind their way through old Porto lie several
stretches of pedestrian-only cobblestone streets. These quaint thoroughfares
are lined with shops and cafes, bistros and wine bars.
Rua de Santa Catarina is one of the most popular avenues and is home
to the Majestic Café. Established in 1921, the Majestic is a
magnificent and beautiful landmark where locals and tourists gather
to sip an espresso and share conversation. Both sides of the café’s
entrance are lined with wrought-iron padded chairs and white marble
bistro tables, sheltered by large billowy umbrellas to shade guests
during the heat of the day. Italian Renaissance-style stonework graces
the cafe’s façade; however, step inside the Majestic and
a jewel of architecture reveals itself. A stunning combination of dark,
hand-carved filigree woodwork surrounds intricately framed mirrors,
archways and walls, emphasizing the ornate décor wherever you
gaze. Deep-green marble floors and smooth, round columns accent white
linen tabletops. Lighting fixtures with old European designs illuminate
the sculptured cherubs smiling down on the café’s patrons.
Majestic Café, Porto Portugal - Photo by Patrice
Raplee
The Majestic also features an outside back courtyard with additional
seating. It is accessible at the rear of the building, by way of a
curving stone stairway, flanked by stone Italian statues and urns overflowing
with colorful flora.
The menu for the café is excellent and offers various bar selections,
as well as gourmet espresso and teas. The Majestic Café is truly
glorious and is a priority when visiting Porto!
The public squares in Porto are filled with ornate fountains and Portuguese
statues, overlooking grand stone churches and the multi-colored tiled
fronts of old buildings; the structures contain shops and businesses
on the ground level and support apartments and small pensions on the
higher floors. It is common to see the city’s residents gazing
from their small balconies down on the colorful and busy streets.
It is easy to walk through old Porto for sightseeing, restaurants and
shopping. Although there are many inexpensive parking garages located
all over the city, it is advisable to take public transport to the
city center. The narrow and steep streets are difficult to navigate
and lack easily readable street signs.
One of the best places to walk and see Old Porto is down by the Douro
River. In the spring and summer, wait until evening when it’s
cooled down and the restaurants start to open for dinner. The walkways,
buildings and river are aglow with the long, golden rays of evening
sunlight and make for an enchanted stroll. The walkways meander past
side streets and are tucked in alcoves that open up to hidden bistros
and restaurants that seat guests on quaint balconies overlooking the
river or small courtyard gardens. Look carefully at the doors you pass,
as some are indeed charming residences; but on closer inspection, some
doors lead into wine bistros and cafes with a treasure of Port wines
and some of the best traditional Portuguese fare in the city. Go off
the beaten path and follow a cobblestone side street; or explore a
flight of ancient stone steps and you may run into unexpected little
shops selling Portuguese goods, with locals chatting over an evening
espresso.
If you want to go tour the Port wineries, or want a little nightlife,
the town of Gaia is located across the Douro River by the Ponte D Luis
Bridge. It is five minutes from Porto’s old town. Restaurants
and small wine bistros line the banks of the Douro and tour boats are
available day and night for one-hour river cruises at reasonable prices.
Take a sunset cruise and have your camera ready for some stellar photo
opportunities.
Almost all of the restaurant staff in Gaia and Porto speak English
and are friendly and welcoming. One of the best spots for excellent
dining and a sociable atmosphere is the Ar De Rio Grill, located on
the banks of the Douro. It has indoor and outdoor seating and in the
evening, big screen monitors broadcast MCM, which is a French equivalent
of VHS, but plays cool American and foreign music videos. The volume
in general gets a bit loud, but table conversation is still audible.
The restaurant’s specialty is a small portable barbeque brought
to your table with a tasty selection of veggies and meats to grill.
This restaurant and bar is a favorite for locals and tourists.
A more relaxed atmosphere for dinner with a gorgeous sunset view of
the river is the Real Indiana Restaurant just a few blocks down from
the Ar De Rio Grill. Make sure to ask for balcony seating. The Indian
cuisine is exceptional and guests can choose spice levels.
If you prefer an intimate glass of Port and nibbles, go further west
along the riverbank to Garrafeira Do Infante. This small stone-block
bistro boasts the best and rarest Port Wines and serves exquisite local
cured meats and cheeses. Luis, resident server at Infante, has a wealth
of knowledge about Port wine and Portugal in general and his charismatic
personality is worth an evening just to chat with him.
There are numerous superb restaurants all over Gaia and Porto, with
cuisine to suit all tastes, from traditional Portuguese to American
and Mediterranean. Ask your concierge or local friendly shop owner
for a few suggestions if the restaurant options seem overwhelming.
The coastline of Porto is dotted with small communities and parks where
locals and tourists relax or fish off jetties. There are a few beaches
where sunbathing rules, but most of the beach areas by the city are
rocky and lined with cement walking paths.
There are many fine accommodation choices with views of the ocean,
but no big resorts or major hotels. Small hotels or pensions are the
standard and travelers should check with tour companies or do some
research on the web to establish where they wish to stay and what accommodations
are available to suit their needs.
July and August are extremely hot in Porto and spring through early
summer is recommended for an optimal visit. To the east of Old Porto
is the more modern section of the city with major hotel chains, business
centers and upscale boutiques and the Norte Shopping Mall.
Porto Nova Restaurant, Sheraton Porto, Portugal –
Photo
by Patrice Raplee
Travelers who prefer upscale accommodations should try the Sheraton
Porto Hotel and Spa. This five-star hotel is a modern marvel with fabulous,
all-inclusive spa facilities, Porto Nova, an outstanding restaurant,
and chic guest rooms. The standard guest rooms offer the sweet-sleeper
bed and the bathrooms are an unusual combination of marble floors and
vanities and glass walls with frosted sliding glass doors. The bathtubs
will accommodate guests well over six feet tall and the luxury of these
rooms is fabulous for the price.
The Porto Nova Restaurant serves a gorgeous traditional Portuguese
buffet on Sundays and the selection of cuisine is unbelievable! Even
with all of the wonderful restaurants in Porto, Sheraton’s Sunday
brunch is unparalleled in presentation and quality.
Perhaps the most notable feature of the Porto Sheraton is the affable
staff. If a traveler doesn’t have a clue of where to go, what
to do and how to get there, the staff at Sheraton’s front reception
desk will help you with activity options, shopping areas, museums,
wineries and sight-seeing. Ask reception’s Marcus or Gabriella
and they will help you to navigate without getting lost.
Santa Luzia, Viana Do Castello, Portugal – Photo
by Patrice Raplee
Several interesting towns are just up the coastline from Porto and
worth a visit. Viana Do Castello is the nicest and a small coastal
community about 45 minutes from Porto. At the top of the hill from
the city’s center is a magnificent church Santa Luzia. Tourists
from all over the globe stop to visit and wander through the gardens
and look out over one of the most beautiful panoramas in the world.
Built in 1898, Santa Luzia is a lovely church with rose-adorned,
stained glass windows, 26 harmonized carillon bells and sculpted
stone architecture
in a romantic Byzantine style. Santa Luzia is a special place and
the tranquility of the church and grounds is captivating.
Portugal is a marvelous and sunny place to vacation and sightsee
and although the old town of Porto may not be as architecturally
glamorous
as other European cities, the atmosphere is much more relaxed and
the people truly are among the friendliest in Western Europe.
Northern Portugal leaves an indelible mark of harmony on the traveler
who takes the time to experience and immerse themselves in a culture
and place that is a little East and West of disquiet. For additional
information on Portugal tourism, go to http://www.portugalvirtual.pt/_tourism/costaverde/porto/
ukcity.html
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