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European City Keeps Classical Allure
Grand Place - Brussels, Belgium – Photo By Patrice
Raplee
By Patrice Raplee
Brussels, Belgium, the crossroads of Europe and the capital of the European
Union: The bilingual residents of this glorious city live and thrive in a
rich Flemish and French culture that encompasses art, architecture, language
and cuisine to history and, of course, incomparable chocolate.
Brussels is lively and fast-paced, yet has kept a classical European
allure. Graceful and capacious parks with marble sculptures and
intricate wrought iron
fences dot the city. Dozens of small side streets, lined with tiny, hidden
shops and an unbroken chain of tall, old stone townhouses, slip in between
the major thoroughfares and Metro entrances. The delicate, lilting sound
of French accents and rhythmical fall of footsteps echoing off
narrow cobblestone
streets weave a dreamy peacefulness that belie modern encroachment.
Brussels lies in an east and west configuration with the city’s
hub located on the west side. Visitors will find museums, the Royal
Palace, historical monuments, cuisine, shops, the Famous Sablon Antique
Market, Grand Place and a wonderful selection of elegant hotels in
a walkable area.
The most famous of Brussels’ landmarks is the Grand Place,
located precisely in the city’s center. This striking historical
market square, reigns as one of the most beautiful town squares in
Europe. Artist booths fill the square with paintings and drawings,
while contented tourists stroll about gazing at the amazing gothic
design of the Town Hall, guild houses and surrounding buildings.
Throughout the year, concerts and small musical groups perform in
the square, affording visitors the opportunity of sitting in one of
the many terraces to enjoy the music, atmosphere and an excellent Belgian
beer. The Grand Place is also a great area to begin your exploration
of the town.
Located just four blocks southeast of the Grand Place square on Rue
de L’ Etuve, resides Brussels’ beloved bronze statuette
Mannekin Pis. This small, 17th century fountain-statuette, positioned
up in a sculptured stone edifice, emits a stream of water indicative
of its name. On holidays or special occasions, the statuette is dressed
up in different costumes; several times a year, Mannekin Pis streams
beer instead of water. The amusing monument is so famous it is mentioned
in every sightseeing guide available in the city and even garners a
website. The Belgian’s reverence for this petite icon stems from
a long history of its theft and debacle. Indeed, the statuette’s
cheeky and enduring existence symbolizes the bold spirit of Brussels
and her people.
Royal Palais Park – Brussels, Belgium – Photo
By Patrice Raplee
Place du Grand Sablon lies farther southwest (about seven blocks)
of Mannekin Pis. The avenue is lined with wonderful shops, restaurants
and some of Brussels’ best chocolate houses/patisseries, as well
as the Grand Sablon Antique Market.
The Café Leffe Bruxelles is an excellent place for lunch indoors
or outdoors. In cooler weather, awnings and heat lamps glow down on
intimate little tables, affording guests a cozy atmosphere to enjoy
the remarkable old architecture and afternoon bustle along the Sablon.
The café offers scrumptious quiches, sandwiches salads and various
hotplates of local specialties, such as a delectable beer-enhanced
stew. It is acceptable to just sit and order a small tray of tea or
coffee with a cookie or chocolate.
The café is situated between three famous chocolate houses,
Godiva, Pierre Marcolini and Wittamer, just up the block. The Belgians
take their chocolate seriously and the excellence of the country’s
chocolate is mirrored in the creators and the establishments that present
them. Godiva’s stylish interior is small, but offers chocolate
made from a different recipe than what is available in the U.S. Naturally,
the taste is different and well worth trying. Pierre Marcolini is a
relative newcomer to the sophisticated monde of epicurean chocolate,
but an exquisite addition, with prestigious awards bestowed upon the
chocolatier’s creations and patisserie selections. Marcolini’s
trademark black and white cocoa bean and wrapping extends to the boutique’s
chic interior with two floors of incomparable confections and a flowing
chocolate fountain next to the counter. Considered among the top chocolatiers
in the world, Marcolini’s originality in orchestrating new blends
of unusual flavors, such as Earl Grey with citron or thyme orange and
curry with dark chocolate (caraibe), elevate his chocolate to a new
standard. Some of Marcolini’s creations are a bit curious to
the palate at first; however, one soon finds a serious craving and
sadly, an empty box.
Wittamer Chocolatier, one block up and across the street from Pierre
Marcolini, is a long-established family business and still resides
in its original 1910
location on the Grand Sablon. Wittamer’s signature shocking pink boxes
fill the boutique’s window and as you enter, friendly hosts are ready
to help you identify the different chocolates and answer any questions. These
chocolates are sublime and the king’s favorite. They have several unusual
choices; try the gingerbread or the truffle Kirsch-cognac. Brussels has dozens
of fabulous chocolatiers located throughout the city and many of these establishments
are patisseries that serve light pastries, cakes, mousses, specialty teas and
coffees.
Put together a chocolate tour while you’re in Brussels with
help from your concierge. If you wish to know the history of chocolate
and try a sample, visit the Chocolate Museum (Musee du Cacao et du
Chocolate), located in the Grand Place Square.
The Grand Sablon Antique Market is located at the south end of the
Sablon. Treasures and gorgeous European antiques fill table after table
in this popular open-air market. The antiques market is open year-round
and features goods ranging from affordable to embarrassingly expensive.
However, the selection is excellent, antique hunters mingle with bargain
hunters and tourists to find sterling silverware, fine crystal, paintings,
jewelry, French and Belgian porcelain dishes and figurines, ornate
trinkets, lace and scores of other goods not typically found in traditional
antique shops. The market sellers often speak English and are a mostly
friendly and definitely interesting lot. It’s a fun and out-of-the-ordinary
place to spend a few hours.
Mannekin Pis Fountain – Brussels, Belgium – Photo
By Patrice Raplee
The Sunday Flea Market, situated on Place du Jeu de Balle (Marolles
Square) is a sprawling but relaxed affair. The flea market has volumes
of cast-offs but a little digging usually unearths a few treasures.
The market is open everyday, but the best finds are on weekends.
Brussels’ cultural appeal is inherent in its abundance of fantastic
museums. Several of the museums are located within the city’s
west side. The Museum Of Fine Arts, The Art Nouveau, The Belgian Centre
of Comic Strip Art and The City Museum are among the most popular in
Brussels. The Museum of Fine Arts, located on Place Royal, consists
of two buildings residing next to each other, the modern art building
and the ancient art building. The buildings contain 12 floors of incredible
artwork and sculptures from the 15th century to the 20th century. Famous
works by Van Gogh, Seurat, Bosch and Rubens are just a few of the museums’ treasures.
The ancient art building proffers a great café for lunch and
an impressive gift shop as well. Belgians love comic strips, especially
Tin Tin. The Comic Strip Museum is a lot of fun and a great place to
take the family and enjoy a lovely art nouveau venue. There are three
floors of comic artwork, sketches and memorabilia and an animated
film section. The Comic Strip Museum is located on Zandstraat - Rue
des
Sables, 20. For a complete list of museums and their addresses, visit
the website listed at the conclusion of this article.
The shopping opportunities in Brussels cater to all levels of indulgence
and taste. Avenue Louise, off Av. De la Toison d’Or, is about
10 blocks long and features upscale boutiques, jewelry, galleries,
cafes and hotels. This area is essential for those “in fashion.” Flemish
designer Ann Demeulemeester catches the eye with unique black and white
attire that sets the mark for “on the scene.” Floaty and
Fabulous is the sought-after Harvey Nichols’ store featuring
gorgeous Chine fashions. The silk dresses will astonish you and the
Chine creations fall unquestionably in the diaphanous realm.
Rue Neuve, off the main thoroughfare Boulevard du Jardin Botanique,
is the entrance to a pedestrian shopping area that sports the City
2 Mall. The City 2 is similar to most malls. However, the department
store Inno is a good place to find moderately priced European fashions
and is Brussels’ equivalent to Macy’s. Walk down Rue Neuve
and the number of fashion shops appears endless. Continue west past
the pedestrian section and cross the street to Rue Fripiers, where
the enticing aroma of warm waffles drifts through the air. Vendors
with small carts sell these sugared delicacies all day long (Belgians
eat their waffles from napkins in the afternoons, not for breakfast).
Rue Fripiers also connects to side streets that eventually lead to
the Grand Place area. Additional shopping areas for lace, and the coveted
Belgian wall tapestries and purses are located on small side streets
off the Grand Place. Don’t be anxious about getting lost in this
area, as these streets are short and connect back to major landmarks
and avenues. These are where some of Brussels most charming buildings
and old-fashioned European shops exist.
Brussels’ landmarks are magnificent and a walking tour of the
city will lead you by many of them. The Royal Palace, off the Boulevard
du Regent, is a beautiful and regal estate with ornate, sculptured
gardens adorning the fascia. The palace guards march purposely back
and forth behind the tall, wrought iron and gold-tipped gates, while
visitors poise their cameras for the elegant spectacle. Stone Lions
on pedestals guard the entrance to the grand Royal Park across from
the palace. Pedestrians are welcome to meander through the tree-lined
paths or relax on a bench.
Hotels are always one of the most important considerations while
vacationing or on business. Brussels caters to both factions and offers
a bevy of recognizable chains and quaint hotels that often reside in
grand old maisons. For a smaller and truly elegant hotel close to the
Grand Place and the heart of the city, try the Hotel Mozart on Rue
Marche aux Fromages. Each individually decorated room in this 17th
century maison captures the warmth and style of another era. The lobby
and halls of the hotel border on the theme of a petite Versailles,
yet without a cold or pretentious atmosphere. The attention to detail,
style and art in the Mozart is impressive even by European standards
and the room rates are wonderfully inexpensive. The Mozart Hotel is
top pick for small inner city accommodations. Two famous five-star
hotels are located in the same area, the Royal Windsor and Amigo Hotel
located on either side of the Mozart Hotel. If you prefer to stay at
a chain hotel, the Brussels Marriott Hotel on Rue A. Orts is a two-minute
walk to Grand Place. To stay a little outside of the city center, try
the Marriott Renaissance Hotel and Executive Apartments located in
the Brussels European Quarter on Rue Parnasse (about two miles from
the city center). The hotel and apartments, sitting side by side, are
on a quiet street with intimate neighborhood restaurants, and a few
selected shops. The reasonably priced Executive Apartments are an exceptional
property and they have small balconies that look across to old European
townhouses. They also have bright and airy living rooms, nice kitchens
and the most comfortable beds in Brussels! The apartments are fantastic,
but make sure to book ahead as they are always in demand. The Hotel
is a classic Renaissance property and a good choice; it has a marvelous
restaurant and an exceptionally helpful and friendly staff.
Restaurants are as popular and numerous as fashions in Brussels.
Bonsoir Clara, located on Rue Antoine Dansaert, is a restaurant with
unusual décor. The walls are a kaleidoscope of softly illuminated
multi-colored panels, creating a relaxing and intimate atmosphere.
The restaurant features French and Mediterranean cuisine. Experience
the ratatouille chicken and ravioli scampi; both are worth the visit.
Prices are upscale. Aux Armes De Bruxelles is traditional Belgian cuisine,
located on 13 Rue des Bouchers in the city center. Established in 1921,
this beautiful restaurant has a long and prestigious history. The late
King Léopold III used to dine once a month at the Armes for
his favorite meal. The sophisticated atmosphere melds with a lovely
European ambience. Rack of lamb, beef carbonnade, chicken l’orange
and lobster with cream and endives are just a few of the heavenly menu
selections. Prices are mid-scale and reasonable. An important hint
for tipping in Brussels: Most restaurants and taxis include a service
charge in their prices. If service is rude or indifferent, do not tip.
If service is excellent and you wish to express your appreciation,
up to 10 percent is usual.
The city of Brussels evades an archetypal European definition. Modern
mores fused with historical poise achieve a fascinating realm of beauty
and magnificence that inspires admiration and invitation.
For additional information on Brussels’ museums, general info, maps and
activities, go to: http://www.trabel.com/brussels.htm
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