Volume 32 Number 12 Dec 16, 2008

Travel Excursion - Sweden's Gothenberg & scenic islands
Rich, lush Baltic seascapes draw visitors

Travel Excursion

By Patrice Raplee

Photos by © Patrice Raplee

Pictorial cottages painted in rich tones are set amidst lush greenery and small docks that reveal themselves with the passing of a solitary ferry making its way through Stockholm's stunning archipelago. Sweater-clad residents prepare their boats in the brisk morning air, as seabirds wheel and dive with acrobatic adeptness over the Baltic Sea.

The Stockholm archipelago, one of the largest in the Baltic Sea, consists of 24,000 islands and inlets. Several of the islands within this chain offer visitors a chance to experience a unique landscape and cultural richness.

Grinda and Vaxholm, two islands located by ferry from Stockholm's inner harbor, Strandvägen, present diverse attractions, from natural landscape and soft adventure to shopping and cuisine. In addition, the ferry ride aboard Stockholm's ship "The Cinderella," takes about an hour to reach Vaxholm and another 20 minutes to reach Grinda. The ferry expense is minimal and the scenic voyage of the inlet is breathtaking.

Grinda is an enchanting island with only a hotel, its cottages, seasonal campers, a small grocery store and farm animals in residence. This bucolic paradise was once a farming island. Today the island is owned by the Archipelago Foundation as a recreation area for locals and visitors. Here, day-trippers and hotel guests explore the unspoiled beauty of the small island via numerous easy walking paths and nature trails. These trails continue past tranquilly grazing sheep, wooded areas abundant with fauna and vistas overlooking the majestic inlet. Many additional activities, such as kayaking, sailing and swimming, are popular on the island as well.

The charming art deco Grinda Wärdshus, originally built in 1908, with its small guest harbor, is the center of activity on the island. The hotel and fine dining restaurant are open year-round and cater to holiday seekers, weddings and group or business conferences. Guests appreciate the cozy hotel ambience and often relax with a good book in front of the lobby fire or a chat over a glass of wine.

With it's aura of yesteryear, the island and hotel maintains a rare serenity that affords guests a peaceful night's sleep and soulful rejuvenation. For additional information on Grinda and the Grinda Wärdshus, visit www.grindawardshus.se . For additional information on Stockholm's Cinderella ferry and schedules, visit www.stromma.se/en/Skargard/Cinderellabatarna.

Vaxholm is a wonderful island to visit. Walk through old town, shop, enjoy the historical architecture and eat a lovely meal by the harbor. The main island is quite small and usually takes a long afternoon to explore. Numerous boutiques feature local Swedish apparel and jewelry (Torg 1), as well as aromatic bakeries and a superb chocolate shop (Waxholms Choklad). Visitors can also take advantage of sight-seeing tours, rent kayaks and, when the summer weather arrives, go sun-bathing or swimming by Battery Park.

Vaxholm is easily accessible with ferries runing frequently throughout the day and evening. For additional information, visit www.roslagen.se.

Göteborg.

Göteborg, Sweden, located on the southwestern side of the country by Kattegat, (considered a bay of the North Sea) is an intriguing port city. With spectacular gardens, museums, art, history, culture, festivals, canal tours, an amusement park, cuisine and walkable downtown, Sweden's second largest city is an appealing destination.

Göteborg possesses a completely different atmosphere than Stockholm and has the population and feel of a smaller metropolis. This sense is reflected in one of the most visited areas of the city, Haga or old town. Haga's renovated historical wooden houses and cobblestone streets provide a perfect setting for the pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Browse the quaint boutiques, art galleries, antique shops and tea stores that make up the captivating district. These intriguing shops entice visitors to leisurely peruse the avenues and then relax at a sidewalk café in the warm sun, sipping a frothy cappuccino and examining the afternoon's purchases. A famous local Swedish café to visit is Café Husaren for the best coffee and cinnamon rolls (the size of a dinner plate) in town. The interior is a work of art and part of the cafe's charm. The café is extremely popular and lunch hour is generally busy.

After a visit to the café, look across the avenue to the largest East Indian spice shop in Sweden, the Curry House. Aromatic spices and products take up every square inch of the shop and the colorful displays of dried fruits make designing cascades of color that artfully draw the eye. Make sure to bring your camera!

When your appetite is satiated, stroll one block west past Café Husaren to A.A. Antik. This exquisite antique store is brimming with gorgeous antiques from several time periods. European statues, paintings and tiny, jeweled boxes of the most delicate detail are just a few of the amazing items available. Oh yes, and they do indeed ship their antiques.

The Padden boat tours are a wonderful activity and an excellent way to see areas of the city and port, as well as learn the history. Located in the city center at Kungsportsbron, the boat tours are inexpensive and cruise past lovely parks, historical architecture and into the port itself. This tour is fun and perfect for all ages. And, if you have Swedish ancestry, you'll be interested to see the debarkation area where many Swedes once left the country to immigrate to America. The cruise lasts about an hour and is presented in multiple languages.

Göteborg's gardens are definitely superlative with the Botanical Garden considered one of the largest in Northern Europe with over 20,000 plants. The Michelin Green Guide rates their Rock Garden at two stars as well. Another lovely garden to visit is located in the center of town, the Trägårdsföreningen Horticultural Society Gardens. The 19th century park meanders past the old moat where the Padden tours cruise. With rolling green lawns and trees of every Swedish species, the gardens offer a haven for strolling and just taking in the tranquility and beauty.

The Victorian-designed Palm House (greenhouse) was originally built in 1878 as a replica of London's Crystal Palace. Inside this glass-domed work of art, visitors will find small, elegant coffee carts serving hot beverages and nibbles. Several petite, white tables and chairs are available to sip your tea and enjoy the greenhouses exotic plants and mixed art displays.

After exploring the greenhouses, walk through the garden's large selection (1,900 species) of fragrant and colorful rose gardens. When in full bloom, the roses scent the air throughout the park.

The late afternoon is the best time to visit, as it is less crowded and has better light for photography.

The city's museums are varied and fascinating. For the world's finest collection of turn-of-the-century Nordic art, visit the Göteborg Art museum. In addition, their international art collection is impressive and their Hasselblad photographic art is amazing. The hours vary and they are closed Mondays; be sure to check the museum's schedule. Mornings are least crowded.

Festivals play a large roll in Göteborg's cultural environment. One of the most popular is the August Jazz Festival. The festival draws crowds from across Europe and the U.S. for a three-day weekend. From Dixieland to vintage jazz, every club venue in the city is packed with Europe's finest jazz musicians. For additional information, visit, www.gothenburgjazfestival.com .Göteborg is a remarkable city with a great deal to see and do; visitors should plan a minimum of three full days to explore the city. For additional information on Göteborg, visit www.goteborg.com.

Marstrand

The island of Marstrand is located by car or bus about one hour from Göteborg. Just a two-minute (free) ferry ride from Koön mainland, the island is tiny. The original inhabitants of this lovely, fairytale island were the Swedish soldiers and prisoners of Carlsten's Fortress. Although the fortress is now a museum, it is in remarkably good condition. On special birthdays of the fortress, live, costumed re-enactments of the Swedish and Danish battles take place with a fervent vigor.

The island is also a favorite retreat for the Swedish royals, as well as a huge boating culture for its residents. While the population is quite small, the island's Victorian white houses with red roofs and buildings are all immaculately maintained and Marstrand seems like a dream to most visitors who are often surprised that such a beautiful place still exists, if it ever existed at all.

Marstrand is not expensive to visit and a full day is sufficient to walk around the island and explore its original shops and Swedish architecture. Moreover, the island's restaurants excel in their menus of fresh fish and Swedish delicacies all with outstanding views of the ocean and mainland.

Many visitors fall in love with this petite island and wish to spend the night. There are several inns; however, if you want a historic hotel with posh surroundings and experience the very identity of the island, book a stay with the Grand Hotel. Built at the turn-of-the-century, its 22 rooms are well-appointed and cozy with exceptional views of the island and inlet. The hotel's restaurant is excellent and reasonably priced as well.

Manager Britt Hagman is a veritable volume of knowledge about the four-star hotel and its fascinating history. If you happen to make her acquaintance, she will provide local lore and suggestions on places to visit. For addition information on the Grand Hotel, visit www.grandmarstrand.se.

Sweden is a country of great beauty and diverse landscapes. No two islands or cities are the same. Each trip to her enigmatic shores will inspire visitors to return and admire the uniqueness of the land and its people.